California Dreaming: Friday
Friday, October 16
Surfing at last! I was excited and nervous and excited... Did I say I was excited? :)
The weather proved much friendlier than Thursday's squalls. Thursday was beautiful--but treacherous. We enjoyed a large breakfast and went to relax by the poolside before going to surf at noon. As suggested, Steve and I reported to the Pacific Beach Surf Shop at 11:30 a.m. They have a great surf school there. And Stanley, the owner, booked Craig for me again! (I requested Craig, as he was so nice!) My surfing instructor buddy!
Since this was my second lesson and my third time out on the ocean, we skipped the history lesson of how surfing came to be. Craig did show me the currents and how to be safe if you are out too far in the ocean. Then managed to hoist myself in the wetsuit and ugly yellow rubber smock to tell the surfing community that I was a neophyte surfer!
It was amazing catching waves. On the first try with Craig's help, I stood up and caught waves. And then I started catching waves on my own. And then we paddled out beyond the big waves and just watched them. When I caught my first waves without his help, I yelled to everyone on Mission Beach that "I CAUGHT WAVES WITHOUT HELP!" The whole beach heard me. And for the first time in many moons, I DID NOT CARE what people thought. Mission Beach is so freeing in that way.
After surfing for an hour and a half with a couple of breaks in-between, it was time to stop. It was such a wonderful adventure. After I peeled off the wetsuit and said goodbye to Stanley and Craig, Steve and I went on our way. What a wonderful lesson. I love to surf.
Lee, you created a surfing monster (*Smile*). -Thank you.